‘The House of Beauty and Culture’ Book Released by ICA London – WWDKasia Maciejowska. Experimenting with deconstruction and championing androgynous style, the collective expressed and embodied the experience of a generation of avant-garde Londoners reacting to a world of Thatcherism, mass production and the AIDS crisis. A key member was accessories designer, art director and fashion stylist Judy Blame, whose exhibition Never Again runs here until 4 September. The shop embodied an unpolished, narrative, low-tech, dystopian, masculine, radical and postmodern aesthetic. It was specifically urban and expressively communicated the personal experience of living as a young person with artistic aspirations and little income in a post-industrial city. The craftworks possessed different discernable characters, each being intimately reflective of the individual personae that made them, so the holistic body of HOBAC was one that contained various materialities, styles and techniques, unified by a shared critical position. It was a collective, and bore all the erraticisms and symbioses that signify communal living as well as collaborative artistic practice.
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Knew many of huose creative names from those times. I think most teenage girls would really benefit from reading this. We found it amusing. I used to spend a lot of time with John Moore.Courtesy Nemeth Archive. More Details View more. Subscribe to the weekly AnOther newsletter.
As the disinhibition of ecstasy culture set in across disused warehouses throughout the East End, HOBAC was at the fore of creating a fashion language that merged the camp performativity of Soho clubs like Taboo and Heaven with the rough-edged post-industrialism that hosted the rise of rave. Cecil Beaton: The Art of the Scrapbook introduces you to the world of this renowned photographer whose career placed him among some of the most powerful and famous people of the last century. Part of that ethos was to communicate individuality through design, urban and predominantly masculine aesthetic that moved away from the New Romantics and paved the way for an altogether more urban sensibility that would inform the acid house revellers of the rave scene. It inspired the dishevelled, through which a resistant self-conscious criticality could be performed that opposed a dominant culture they felt to be abhorrent in its conservative politics and generic aesthetics.
The House of Beauty and Culture (HOBAC) was an avant-garde boutique, design studio, and crafts collective in late s London, with key figures like Judy Blame, John Moore, Cindy Palmano, and duo Fric and Frack.
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The space he found, on a residential street off Kingsland Road, East London, came with a Victorian shop below, so he invited his friends to show their work there, and to decorate the space. As you walked around the shop you crunched on it. We found it amusing. Among his shopmates were the stylist and jewellery-maker Judy Blame and the fashion designers Christopher Nemeth and Richard Torry. And there was Mark Lebon, the photographer, who shot their work for leading street style magazines The Face and i-D. This group of young men took an ad hoc approach to their craft, collaborating when it felt right, and supporting each other as they found their feet on the London scene.
ICA Student Forum: Performance Is Moving The Gallery Stretching notions of performance in the gallery context An exploration of the potential role of the audience in the presence of performance art in gallery spaces. Maciejowska interviewed Macdonald, adaptive and at times subversive approach took its cues from the punk znd of the previous decade, s. Our Projects See More. The space HOBAC created - its sh. This interpretive.
Today we consider it brave to express yourself in the street — to convey your identity and story with what you wear. We know it takes guts to look different, owning who you are in the face of conformity. Imagine doing it in the '80s, in Hackney, before Dalston was busy, with Thatcher in power, and the AIDS crisis tearing through your friends. The collective used the act of handmaking as a political statement against mass production, more relevant now than ever. Ostracised by the mainstream, they found each through club culture, and built their own tribe through creativity, craft, and collaboration. Whether taking the night bus to Soho, roaming the decrepit Docklands, or decorating the earliest raves in disused warehouses, the HOBAC designers represented individuality in everything they made.
These unique jackets were commissioned by the 80s style magazine in The shop itself was a melting pot of these influences and aesthetics, much like the works on display. Guest post by Kasia Maciejowska. Return to Book Page.
Quotes from well-known people, mainly in the beauty or entertainment fields. Knew many of the creative names from those times. Both photographers shot on film and made movies on Super8! ICA Student Forum: Performance Is Moving The Gallery Ahd notions of performance in the gallery context An exploration of the potential role of the audience in the presence of performance art in gallery spaces!I used to spend a lot of time with John Moore. It hardly seems possible, you become more naturally open ? When you welcome other cultur?
It allows people to connect to and understand the book. In the s the East End was an urban wasteland. Books by Shari Graydon. More from around the blog Our News See More.